Palma prostitutka?

Objavljeno u Zanimljivosti

Stabla palme nisu autohtono hrvatska, ali dobro uspijevaju u mediteranskim klimatskim uvjetima na obali.

Grana palme je simbol pobjede, trijumfa i vječnog života. Također je simbol mira. Za malo mjesto Vrbosku koja je na Hvaru poznata kao „Mala Venecija“, stablo palme je simbol koji predstavlja grad. Podižući se skromno iz centra otočića Škojić ( što u lokalnom dijalektu znači upravo otočić), palma je šarmantno žarište obale Vrboske.

Škojić se korsiti za ljetne spektakle. Služi kao magična pozadina za događaje poput vrboskih koncerata na brodovima te je savršeno mjesto za nastup poput „Dvije dame u ljetnoj noći“ koji je prikazan 10.7.2014. Fotografije s vrboskih kulturnih događanja možete vidjeti na Vrboska Tourist Board (TZ) Facebook stranici.

Bilo je, stoga, iznenađenje mnogima kad su saznali da je vijeće općine razmotrilo i prihvatilo prijedlog da se palma ukloni i da se Škojić prekrije smrčom, mirtom, pistacijom i rogačem. Vijesti su izazvale jaku reakciju jer je oko 200 lokalnih ljudi odmah počelo potpisivati peticiju za spašavanje stabla. Mišljenja su se izricala na internetu te je ekspert za stabla iz Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva na praznicima u Vrboskoj opisao palmu kao ikonu, tj. snažan vizualni element koji pomiruje različitost obalnih građevina. Mjesni reporter Mirko Crnčević napisao je odmjereni članak u Slobodnoj Dalmaciji 21.7.2014., a iza njega je slijedio široko čitani komentar Jurice Pavičića u Jutarnjem listu 26.7.

Palma Škojić nije bila na tom mjestu suviše dugo: slike iz 1970ih, poput onih u sjajnom malom vodiču za Hvar od Nike Dubokovića (prvi put izdan 1974., hrvatski tekst dostupan na internetu) pokazuju kako je otočić bio prekriven žbunjem i drvećem. Iako je se može okarakterizirati kao novopridošlicu, plama se etablirala u emblem koji većina stanovnika i gostiju želi zadržati. Prisustvovala je svim svakodnevnim aktivnostima i gradskim festivalima, uključujući i važne događaje poput Procesije iz 2014. u čast četiri stoljeća Čudotvornog sv. Križa. Mnogi smatraju kako ni jedna fotografija Vrboske luke ne bi bila potpuna bez nje.

Arhitektica projekta uređenja, Dobrila Kraljić, opravdala je predloženo uništenje palme nazvavši je „previše ekscentričnom i pretencioznom“. Otpužila je palmu da strši poput nateklog palca i da zavodi oči svojim bezobzirnim egzoticizmom. Ona je smatra „neautentičnom“ i u neskaldu s okolišem iza nje. Njezino okrutno klevetanje jadne palme izazvalo je zajedljivu repliku arhitektice Barbare Matejčić koja je kazala da opis Dobrile Kraljić zvuči kao opis istočnoeruopske prostitutke. U podlozi ovog komentara je možda rasizam i možda neopravdano vrijeđa najstariji zanat na svijetu koji je pedantno politički korektan, ali svejedno se može shvatiti njegova bit.

Je li jadna, izgrđena palma „neautentična“? I čak i da jest, predstavlja li to zločin koji se kažnjava smrću? Vrijedi li isto i za druge palme po ulicama i vrtovima Vrboske? Ima ih mnogo i ne samo u Vrboskoj, već po cijeloj Dalmaciji.

Palme su nedvojbeno stigle u Dalmaciju s drugog mjesta; kao, uostalom, i niz drugih stabala, grmova i biljki. Jedna od radosti hortikulture je način na koji imigracija bilja uljepšava krajolik. Putnica Maude Holbach, pri putovanju Dalmacijom na početku 20. stoljeća, opisala je dojmove o biljakama s Hvara koji je tad bio poznat kao Lesina:

„Kao što se može i očekivati s obzirom na klimu, sve vrste južnih biljaka i stabala uspijevaju na Lesini, među njima palme, masline, naranče i limuni, divovske agave i eukaliptus.“ („Dalmacija: zemlja u kojoj istok upoznaje zapad“; izdavač: Cosimo inc., prvi put objavljeno 1910., str 211) Na visu (Lissi), naišla je na stasitu palmu: „Pored rimske vile nalazi se palma koju je teško nadmašiti u veličini i ljepoti na obali i otocima Jadrana. Raste u zanemarenom vrtu pored obale i uzdiže se 24 metra ili više u zrak, izdižući se iz divljeg cvijeća i malih satelitskih palmi, koje su samo male u usporedbi s svojim divovskim susjedom. Starosjedioci kažu da je ova kraljevska palma barem 300 gdoina čuvala jadransku obalu pred sobom. Svjedočila je turskim invazijama koje su primorale ljude da se povuku u tvrđave, koje i danas postoje te čine mjesto pitoresknim, zbog sigurnosti i obrane. Čini se da nema razloga zašto ne bi stajale tu još stoljećima kako bi prisustvovale buđenju usnule Lisse, s obzirom na kucanje modernog života koje zasigurno dolazi.“ (ibid. p. 218)

Hvala nebesima stoga što gđa. Kraljić nije bila prisutna onda da bi predložila uklanjanje ovo sjajnog primjerka i njegovih zelenih drugova. Njegovani, sređeni vrt ne bi naprosto ostavio jednak dojam na ovu perceptivnu posjetiteljicu. Divlje cvijeće važan je dio dalmatinskog identiteta. Nažalost, čini se da oni koji odlučuju o hortikulturalnim aranžmanima za vijeće Jelse nisu svjesni koju ulogu, sa svojom prirodnom ljepotom, igra divlje cvijeće u privlačenju turista. Naprimjer, divlje cvijeće koje krasi ceste oko Jelse treperavim bojama tijekom proljeća bezobzirno je iskorijenjeno, ostavljajući depresivna prostranstva gole zemlje. Grmlje posađeno da popuni prostor okrutno je podšišano u stanje neprirodne urednosti. To se posebno odnosi na nasilno ograničenje ružmarina, kojeg bi se trebalo pustiti da raste i širi se slobodno, a to nije privlačan prizor.

Može li cijena obnove Škojića biti opravdana? Osobno sumnjam u to. Postoji mnogo gorućih potreba unutar lokalne zajednice koje se ne rješavaju zbog manjka sredstava usprkos uspješnim naporima sadašnjeg gradonačelnika Jelse, Nikše Peronje, da smanji dug koje su ostavile prethodne administracije. Sustav reciklaže koji je presudan za zdravlje zajednice u regiji Jelse još uvijek nije na vidiku iako je važan dio hrvatskog zakona o održivom upravljanju otpadom, u skladu s europskim direktivama.

OČUVAJMO PALMU ŠKOJIĆ!

Zašto?

Škojić je vrlo privlačan jer je u sadašnjoj formi idealan za održavanje koncerata, javnih čitanja i drugih događanja. Palma Škojić je jedinstveni emblem koje kroji identitet Vrboske. Ona je etablirana turistička atrakcija.

© Vivian Grisogono 2014

Prijevod: Bartul Mimica

Video sadržaj

Vrboska in 1969, without the palm Video uploaded to Youtube by Pero Razović
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