Dvije mlade dame s ogromnim naprtnjačama stajale su pored ceste izvan Jelse u vrućini ranog popodneva pa sam ih odlučila prevesti, mada je to značilo mijenjanje planirane rute povratka kući. Krenule su prema trajektnoj luci u Starom Gradu, a provele su tek nekoliko dana na Hvaru. Pretpostavila sam, s obzirom na njihovu mladolikost, da su došle na Hvar zbog njegove poznate (ili notorne, ovisi kako na to gledate) party scene za mlade. Ipak nije bilo tako. Došle su se odmoriti jer su se našle na pola napornog putovanja željeznicom po Europi. Belen Blanco i Ana Ruth Resco, dvadesetgodišnjakinje iz Madrida, počele su putovanje vlakom iz Berlina te ih je put odveo u Prag, Beč i Ljubljanu, prije nego što su stigle u Split. Kako su bile vrlo umorne, odlučile su otići na Hvar. Dobro su se odmorile na otoku, a kad sam ih srela, bile su u dobroj formi za nastavak putovanja. Primijetila sam neke ozbiljne gojzerice pričvršćene na naprtnjačama, što je sigurno značajno povećalo njihovu težinu. Bila sam impresionirana lakoćom kojom su se nosile s teretom. Govorile su mi koliko su uživale na otoku koji je vrlo sličan nekim španjolskim otocima. Bile su jako zainteresirane za prirodne znamenitosti i zadovoljne što otok nije „prenapučen turistima“. Kazale su mi da su vodile računa o čistoći okoliša, sakupljajući smeće kad bi na njega naišle. Zasigurno nisu došle na Hvar kako bi pile i tulumarile do neprepoznatljivosti i uništenja. Doimale su se kao zdeave, sretne, dobro izbalansirane djevojke.
Tulumarenje bez granica je očigledno postao općeprihvaćeni element turističke ponude posljednjih godina. Ovo je uzrokovalo stres za destinacije koje mogu ponuditi druge stvari, poput mira i tišine, čistog smještaja i reda. Organizirani party-turizam je unosan posao. U Dalmaciji, nažalost, pojedinci u pozicijama moći, pogotovo lokalni načelnici, u mogućnosti su ignorirati želje lokalnih vijeća i stanovništa te dozovoljavaju taj oblik turizma, usprkos žestokoj i dobro argumentiranoj opoziciji. Međutim, pokreće se javna rasprava. Čak i oni koji favoriziraju party-turizam ne žele da dalmatinski otoci utonu na nivo koji karakterizira druge mediteranske destinacije koje su postale party meke. Belen i Ana dokazuju da nije svim mladim ljudima potreban stimulans jake glazbe, vrtoglavih svjetala, alkohola, droge i nekontroliranog okretanja da bi uživali u slobodnom vremenu.
Bilo me sram pomisliti da posjetitelji otoka kupe za sobom smeće. Teško da takvu aktivnost želimo promovirati kao turističku atrakciju. Gotovo svaki dan kupim smeće hodajući Jelsom i drugim dijelovima otoka. I nisam jedini žitelj koji ovo radi. Ali nekim mještanima je to čudno pa im moram objašnjavati da čist okoliš omogućava gostima da se opuste; i ako želimo goste „bolje kvalitete“, moramo se prikazati kao domaćine „visoke kvalitete“. Mnogi mladi smatraju da je micanje otpada iz prirode posao nekog drugog. Vjerojatno su pogledali previše američkih filmova gdje je stvaranje nereda koji će netko drugi počistiti demonstracija moći. No zapravo je naš posao odgovorno zbrinuti otpad. Ako drugima to ne uspijeva, odgovornost je općine ili mjesta da ispravi stvar i održi okoliš čistim. Nered i otpad odbijaju turiste.
Hvar ima obilje prirodnih ljepota s mnoštvo pejzaža, mirisa i zvukova koji hrane osjetila. Gosti svih dobi imaju pravo doći i uživati u miru otoka. Može se naći prostora i za uživaoce zabava, ali mora postojati jasna granica između njih i ostalih. U popodnevnoj vrućini, ptice i insekti stvaraju ugodnu pozadinu za fjaku poslije ručka.
Čisto more i plavo nebo je obavezna sastavnica odmora na sunčanom otoku poput Hvara. Svaki napor kako bi se održala kvaliteta ovakvog iskonskog okoliša je opravdan.
Svatko se treba odmoriti dok je na godišnjem odmoru – čak i najodlučniji partijaneri. Prirodni ljudski cirkadijurni ritam određuje da se sati tame provedu u snu. Hvarski zakoni zabranjuju glasnu muziku u ranim satima i to je potpuno razumno.
Gosti poput Belen i Ane dokazuju da su prirodne atrakcije Hvara privlačne i mladim turistima, a ne samo onima starije dobi. Eco Hvar im želi dobro u budućim putovanjima. One (i drugi poput njih) će uvijek biti dobrodošli gosti ukoliko se odluče vratiti i istražiti detaljnije otok u budućnosti – možda čak s djecom i unucima!
© Vivian Grisogono 2014
Prevodio: Bartul Mimica
It was not a good time to be hitch-hiking, with most people at lunch, so I gave them a lift, even though it meant a detour from my planned route home. They were heading for the Stari Grad ferry, having spent just a couple of days on Hvar. I assumed that that, being young, they might have come for Hvar's increasingly famous (or notorious, depending on your point of view) youth partying. Not so. They had come for a rest, as they were in the middle of a strenuous trip by rail through Europe. Both aged 20 and from Madrid, Belen Blanco and Ana Ruth Resco began their train adventure in Berlin, and they had taken in Prague, Vienna and Ljubljana before arriving in Split. There they decided to head for Hvar, as they were very tired. They had a restful time on the island, and when I met them they were looking in peak fitness for their departure. I noticed some serious hiking boots attached to the rucksacks, which must have added considerably to the weight. I was impressed by the ease with which they handled their loads. They told me how much they had enjoyed the island, which was similar to some of the Spanish islands. They took a keen interest in the natural surroundings, and were pleased that the island did not seem too 'touristy'. They told me that they took care of the environment, picking up litter when they came across it. They had certainly not come to Hvar to drink themselves senseless and rave to destruction. They looked healthy, happy, contented and well-balanced.
Partying-to-excess has apparently become an accepted element of tourism in recent years. This has caused dismay in destinations which have other attractions to offer, such as peace and quiet, clean facilities and law and order. Organized party-tourism is big business. In Dalmatia, sadly, individuals in power, especially local mayors, have been able to ignore the wishes of their local Councils and residents to allow party-tourism despite fierce and well-reasoned opposition. The public debate has gathered momentum. Even those who favour party-tourism in principle do not want Dalmatian islands to descend to the level of other Mediterranean destinations blighted by excess partying. Belen and Ana prove that not all young people need the stimulus of loud music, flashing lights, drink, drugs and uncontrolled gyrations to enjoy their leisure time.
I was embarrassed to think of visitors to the island picking up rubbish. It's hardly an activity we would want to advertise as a tourist attraction. Almost every day, I pick up litter as I walk around Jelsa and other parts of Hvar Island. I'm not the only local resident doing this. But some locals find it strange, so I have to explain that a clean environment makes visitors feel comfortable; and if we want 'better-quality' guests, we have to show ourselves to be 'high-quality' hosts. Many youngsters take the view that picking up litter is someone else's job. They've probably watched too many American films, where making a mess for someone else to clear up is a (peculiar) demonstration of power. No, actually it's our job to dispose of rubbish responsibly. If others have failed to do so, it's a communal responsibility to put the situation right and keep the environment tidy. Mess and rubbish are tourist turn-offs.
Hvar has an abundance of natural beauty, with myriad sights, smells and sounds to delight the senses. Guests of all ages have the right to come and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the island. There is also room for party revellers, but there has to be a clear separation between the ravers and the rest. In the heat of the afternoon, birds and insects create a soothing background to the post-prandial siesta.
Clean seas and blue skies are a must for holiday tourism on a sunshine island like Hvar. No effort should be spared to maintain a pristine environment to the best of our ability.
Everyone needs a rest while on holiday - even the most determined partygoer. The natural human cycle is to use the hours of darkness for one's main sleep. Hvar's normal laws prohibit loud music during the early hours with good reason.
Guests like Belen and Ana prove that the quieter natural attractions of Hvar appeal to the young, not just the middle-aged and elderly. Eco Hvar wishes them both well for their further travels. They (and those like them) will always be welcome guests if they choose to come back and explore the island more fully in the future - and maybe later on with their children and grandchildren!
© Vivian Grisogono 2014
